Showing posts with label Asaf Jah. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Asaf Jah. Show all posts

Friday, April 7, 2017

Princely India by Raja Lala Deen Dayal: Court Photographer (1884-1910) to the Premier Prince of India.

Reading this book is like having an intimate look into a slice of history.

Every time I visit Hyderabad, I visit the Mecca Masjid where the Asaf Jah kings lie in peace: all except the First Nizam and the Seventh Nizam. One can still find the remnants of past splendour in the Paigah tombs and the vast tomb complex of the Qutubshahi kings. Yet, the nondescript marble tombs of the Asaf Jahs draw as many visitors as the rest. My favourite is the tomb of the sixth Nizam Mahbub Ali Khan Pasha in Mecca Masjid where visitors are smeared with ashes on the brow to protect them from snake bites and bad luck. This book offers a rare glimpse of this King, Saint and beloved of the people, the 6th Nizam of Hyderabad.

The Asafjah dynasty rose out of the ruins of war through audacity and political craft.

Twice in history, Asafjahs swam against the current of political change that drowned even bigger dynasties in its deluge: The first time after the invasion of Delhi by Nadir Shah in 1739 and second, after the 1857 Indian war of Independence that ended with the exile of Bahadur Shah Zafar II to Rangoon and the complete dismantling of the Mughal empire.

This book is a collection of photographs taken by Raja Deen Dayal. Financial adversity compelled Deen Dayal’s later generations to sell off somewhere between forty thousand to sixty thousand annotated glass plate negatives for the price of glass scrap. The present book is a compilation of the remaining photographs by the grandson Raja Amichand Deen Dayal. No other photographic or literary record of Nizam Mir Mahbub Ali Khan exists.




Mahbub Ali Khan ascended the throne when he was three following the demise of his father and was tutored by an English teacher, Major Clerk appointed by the British resident, John Cordery. The tutor was later dismissed by the resident for imparting to the young Nizam ‘liberal’ values detrimental to the empire. After the departure of the English tutor, Raja Deen Dayal was one of the very few who had rare access to the reclusive life of the shy and private Nizam. He was appointed the court photographer in 1884 and worked in that capacity until his death in 1910. The demise of the sixth Nizam in 1911 ended the royal patronage to Deen Dayal’s successors.

Clark Worswick discusses in his historical text to the volume, the immense contribution of Raja Deen Dayal in immortalizing the Nizam and Princely Hyderabad through his photographs. While I agree with him, I would also like to add that it was the fore sight and generosity of Mir Mahbub Ali Khan that preserved history and Deen Dayal’s craft for future generations.

The Asaf Jahs were the last gate keepers of Mughal art and high culture. The fall of the Mughal Empire and the dissolution of the Awadh court catalysed an influx of talent into Hyderabad seeking royal patronage and support. The aftermath of the 1857 war of Independence heralded an era of abrupt change. Traditional arts such as paintings, portraits and miniatures gave way to the modern art of photography. Getting a photograph ‘done’ was a symbol of modernity for the Indian aristocracy and Indian bourgeois alike. The absence of patrons and clamour to climb the social ladder hastened the demise of the art of portraiture. Photography became more than art, it became a symbol of social advancement.

Nizam Mahbub Ali Khan’s patronage assumes special significance because this was the first of such an offer to a native Indian professional photographer, privileging him over other reputed and established British Photography firms. Worswick’s words add credence to this sentiment:

“…..the native photographers had to contend with the social snobbery that dictated periodic visits by the princes to British photographic firms based in Calcutta. Perhaps this tradition, more than anything else, doomed the emergent Indian photographer. Yearly the princes would make their almost obligatory trip to Calcutta for the social season, when it was customary for them to be ‘done” by either Bourne & Shepherd or Johnston & Hoffman. These firms were so large, well-equipped, and prestigious that it was impossible for a small Indian firm in a native state to compete (P.18)”


As I leaf through the book I feel, for once Nizam Mahbub Ali Khan’s generosity has not been laid waste. Raja Deen Dayal’s photographs serve both as a record of architecture and social commentary about the times. Deen Dayal captures the mood between the ruler and the ruled with a unique Indian sensibility. For instance, the photograph of the masquerade party demystifies the relations between the imperial ruler and the native (pp. 82-83). The photographs of the tiger hunt in Madanpalle (P.53) and the visit of Grand Duke Alexander of Russia in (P.55) allude to a vanished world. It is hard not to remember the food for work programme of the modern Indian state as one pores over the pictures of the famine relief and public work programs to provide employment to people in 1910(P.64 and P.69)

This book is a window into the past giving us a rare glimpse of the social and political climate in Hyderabad during the reign of Nizam Mahbub Ali Khan. A picture is worth a thousand words, but I would say each photograph is worth ten thousand more because hidden within the static image is the story of a dynamic socio-political milieu.


Thursday, January 12, 2017

Mahlaqa Chanda: An Extraordinary woman for anytime

One of my favourite haunts in Hyderabad is the Darga on top of the Maula Ali hill. This is my place of refuge, and quiet contemplation. One has to climb a few hundred steps leading to the top. The exercise is rewarding: the hill top offers beautiful views of the city sprawling endlessly.


(Photo, Personal Collection: Part of the Trek to Moula Ali Darga, 2016)

The inner courtyard of the Darga with the green pavilion offers shelter to the visiting pilgrims. It was built by Mahlaqa Chanda (1767 - 1824), the adopted daughter of the then Prime Minister of the Nizam, Nawab Ruknuddaula. She was a devout Shia Muslim and in tribute to Moula Ali, she invoked Maula Ali in her takhallus (signature at the end of the poem). Her poems are a combination of spiritual yearning and a commentary on her current times.

Mahlaqa Chanda’s work is accessible at https://rekhta.org/poets/mah-laqa-chanda/ghazals.

Mahlaqa Chanda is an extraordinary woman even by contemporary standards. She chose to never marry and remained single till the end of her life. She was an accomplished poet (and the only woman) who published a Diwan (collection of poems). Mahlaqa Chanda encouraged historical scholarship chronicling the life and times of Nizam-ul-Mulk Asif Jah II, whose reign extended from 1762 to 1803. She was an accomplished dancer and singer, and a favourite of the Nizam.

Chanda rode to war alongside the Nizam in the Battle of Pangal and the Nizam is said to have depended on her wise counsel. In recognition of her bravery and contribution she was awarded the title “Mahlaqa” and the Jagir of Adikmet. She was made a Mansabdar, which entitled her to an income all through her life. She enjoyed extraordinary privileges in the Nizam’s court and was reputed to be a confidant and counsellor to the Nizam. Her charm and erudition broke gender barriers and made her an indispensable presence in the Asafjahi court, a typically male bastion. The present area of the Osmania University, Syedpalli, Hyderguda/old MLA colony, Chandapet, Pallai Pahad and Alibagh are part of the Estate awarded to Chanda by the Nizam.
(Imama, Syeda (Ed). The Untold Charminar: Writings on Hyderabad. Penguin Books India: 2008: pp. 26-34)

I wonder why she chose to live a solitary life. Chanda explains the tenuous nature of being an accomplished and well read woman in a patriarchal society in a letter to her mother.

“No, Ma, I will not marry. I will not be at the mercy of any single man, to be left like you to almost die of hunger and exhaustion. I have my Lord, my God, my Maula, I have your love – I have so much. I will teach and train other girls what i have learnt of the beautiful world of poetry, music and dance of which we have an endless source in this land, they will also acquire the ability and the knowledge to earn if they need to.”

(Latif, Bilkees I. Forgotten. New Delhi: Penguin, 2010: P.113)

I feel this pretty much echoes the sentiments of the modern woman and the need to be independent. Mahlaqa Chanda also built an orphanage for underprivileged girls. The building still stands and houses the Nampally Girls High School. Chanda Bagh, the garden that houses the graves of Mahlaqa Chanda and her mother, is at the foothill of Moula Ali Hill. The following link takes you to a tour of Chanda Bagh and the recent restoration work undertaken by the Nizams trust and other institutions.
https://rekhta.org/poets/mah-laqa-chanda/video


I empathise with Chanda’s sentiments about not being able to reconcile her public life with the sheltered, secluded life marriage entailed in those times. In her words:

“I lack nothing, ya Maula, for God has given me so much in so many ways. My dilemma is that I am desired and wanted in marriage and I have to decide which way of life I should follow. I cannot be a wife, a begum of a great Lord and still indulge in all my interests.....What will happen to my dhrupads and khayals? Never will I be able to whirl around in scintillating dances with my ghungroos alive with sound, and the beat of my feet dancing to the throbbing beat of the music. These are a part of my whole being. Can I live without them?........Dear Lord, confined to a harem; I suppose that I will be cared for....Today I am honoured, respected, loved. Should I surrender all that I am, all that I have? Help me to decide, my Lord. You have cared for me always. Show me the way that I should choose.”

(Latif, Bilkees I. Forgotten. New Delhi: Penguin, 2010: P. 91)

(Painting by Rai Ventkatchallam. Hunting Party of Nizam 'Ali Khan, late 18th century. Opaque watercolor on canvas. Salar Jung Museum, Hyderabad.)
The above painting depicts a lone palanquin with a woman in the upper right corner (Mahlaqa Chanda) and her pet cheetahs: confident and at ease in the Royal procession dominated by men.

As a woman able to traverse the worlds of professional work and marriage, I salute Chanda’s spirit. It is the light of many such women that shines our path today.

(Photo, Personal Collection: My men with Chanda Bagh in the background, 2016.)